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Bicycle Repair Stand

By Karl Ivers (12/07)

This repair stand was influenced by a several other plans on the web. I built a recumbent bicycle so the long wheelbase means I need two of these stands, one for each end. I have just learned how to mig weld so I’m excited about making this stand. (That’s why the welds in the pictures are so ugly. This is my second welding project ever.) J

Please read all the instructions through before you begin.

Materials list (for one stand)

Cost, $30.00 at my friendly hardware store

The “clamp”

1 1” x 12” angle iron (cut into 2-4” and 2-2” pieces)

1 ½” x 8” all-thread rod or (8” threaded bolt)

5 ½” nuts

2 ½” washers

1 ½” lock washer

1 ¾ ” x 4” foam pipe insulation (I had to buy 6 feet for $1.29)

Base

None of the pipe needs threads but you will probably get some prethreaded. That’s OK.

1 1” x 36” black pipe

1 ¾” x 36” black pipe

3 ½” x 12” black pipe (feet)

1 ¼” eyebolt with nut

Construction

Base

Drill a ¼” hole about 2 inches from the end of the 1 x 36 pipe to put the eyebolt into. Drill through one side only. Put the nut on the eyebold and place it into this hole. Weld the nut to the 1” pipe but don’t weld the eyebolt. Remove the eyebolt when it is secure.

Weld the ½” x 12” pipes on the 1” as feet. Weld the back foot on the same side as the eyebolt so the eyebolt sticks out the back of your stand. Spread the front two feet about 80 degrees opposite for a nice triangle base. I tilted the feet a little when adding them so the 1” center pipe doesn’t hit the floor when it sits. Try to get the tilt the same or the stand sits lopsided. You can always bend the feet a little to achieve perfect verticle.

Clamp

Drill a ½ “ hole through both sides of the ¾” pipe about 2 inches from one end. (for the clamp) Slip it inside the 1” pipe and tighten the eyebolt so it doesn’t slip all the way down inside.

Cut the 12” angle iron into 2 – 4” pieces and 2 – 2” pieces

Cut 9/16” holes in the center of one side of the 2” pieces of angle iron.

Heat the 2” pieces of angle iron at the bend and spread from 90 degrees to 135 degrees. If you don’t open them enough, the tops of the clamp don’t squeeze tight enough around the bike frame.

Weld a ½” nut to one 2” piece over the hole, on the inside of the bend. Make sure the all thread will clear the sides of the hole when you weld the nut on. Otherwise the allthread will get stuck and not go on all the way. Drill the threads out of one nut and weld it to the other piece of 2”. (see drawing)

(My goodness those are ugly welds.)

Weld the 2” pieces of angle iron on the 4” pieces in the manner shown in the drawing.

Thread one piece onto the end of the 8” all thread and weld in place. Slide the other piece onto the allthread and slide into place. It won’t stay upright until you put the bike into it and squeeze it together.

Slide on a regular washer and thread another nut on behind it to hold in place when the clamp is tight. (Washer missing in this picture. I dropped it and couldn’t find it in my shop.) Thread the other nuts and washers on in order according to the drawing. Slide allthread onto the ¾” pipe and tighten nuts in place.

Wrap the pipe insulation around the place on the bike where you want to secure it to the stand. Lift the bike into the clamp. Slide the clamp together and tighten the bolt behind the inside piece. Since I'm not a production facility it doesn't matter that this is not quickrelease. I may have the bike in the stand for hours or days.

Raise the stand to the appropriate height.

You’re done. If you have a recumbent, make another one and you are all set. Yeah!